15-Year vs 30-Year Mortgage

A 15-year mortgage costs far less interest but has a much higher payment; a 30-year loan is cheaper monthly and more flexible. Worked $300,000 example.

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A 15-year mortgage pays the house off in half the time and usually at a lower rate, so it costs far less interest in total, but the monthly payment is much higher. A 30-year mortgage has the lowest required payment, which leaves room in the budget and keeps you flexible, at the price of paying interest for twice as long. If the 15-year payment fits comfortably with an emergency fund and retirement saving still on track, it is the cheaper loan; if it would stretch you, take the 30-year and prepay when you can.

At a glance

Example: borrowing $300,000 at example rates of 5.50% for 15 years and 6.25% for 30 years (fixed rates, monthly payments, principal and interest only; taxes and insurance excluded).

15-year at 5.50% 30-year at 6.25%
Monthly payment $2,451.25 $1,847.15
Number of payments 180 360
Total paid $441,225.07 $664,974.58
Total interest $141,225.07 $364,974.58
Interest as a share of the loan 47% 122%
First payment: interest / principal $1,375.00 / $1,076.25 $1,562.50 / $284.65
Interest paid in the first 5 years $72,942.01 $90,840.82
Balance after 5 years $225,866.99 $280,011.72
Balance after 10 years $128,329.91 $252,713.14

The 15-year loan costs $604.10 more per month but saves $223,749.51 in interest. Part of that saving comes from the lower rate and most from the shorter term: at the same 6.25% for both, the 15-year payment would be $2,572.27 and the total interest $163,008.35, still $201,966.23 less than the 30-year loan.

Payments use the standard formula M = P × r / (1 − (1 + r)^−n), with r the monthly rate and n the number of payments. Run your own numbers in the Mortgage Calculator and see the month-by-month split in the Amortization Calculator.

15-year mortgage

You build equity fast: in the example, more than 40% of the very first payment goes to principal, and after five years you owe about $226,000 instead of $280,000. You are debt-free in 15 years, and the total interest bill is well under half.

Choose the 15-year when:

  • The payment fits with room to spare, after an emergency fund and retirement contributions.
  • Your income is stable and you want to be mortgage-free by a set date, such as retirement or children's college.
  • You value the guaranteed "return" of not paying interest more than the possible higher return of investing the difference.

30-year mortgage

The required payment is about a quarter lower, which helps you qualify, leaves cash for other goals and cushions a job loss or emergency. Early on, though, most of each payment is interest: only $284.65 of the first $1,847.15 reduces the balance, and after ten years you still owe more than 84% of the original loan.

Choose the 30-year when:

  • The 15-year payment would strain your budget or leave you without savings.
  • Your income is variable, or you expect big expenses soon.
  • You will reliably invest the difference, or you plan to prepay voluntarily (check with the Mortgage Payoff Calculator how much extra payments save).

Which should you choose?

  • Can afford the 15-year payment comfortably: 15-year.
  • Can afford it only on paper: 30-year, and prepay principal when you can.
  • Need the lowest payment to qualify: 30-year; check what you can borrow with the House Affordability Calculator.
  • Expect to move or refinance within a few years: the term matters less than the rate and fees; compare offers side by side with the Loan Comparison Calculator.
  • Already have a 30-year loan: refinancing to 15 years has closing costs; the Refinance Calculator shows the break-even.

Worked example: investing the difference

Suppose two buyers both spend $2,451.25 a month for 30 years. Buyer A takes the 15-year loan and, once it is paid off, invests the full $2,451.25 a month for the remaining 15 years. Buyer B takes the 30-year loan and invests the $604.10 difference every month from the start. Ignoring taxes, the 30-year buyer ends up ahead only if investments earn more than about 7.5% a year (compounded monthly) over the whole period. At 6% a year, Buyer A finishes with about $712,869 and Buyer B with about $606,826; at 8%, Buyer B wins, about $900,324 against $848,226. The 30-year loan is a bet on returns beating the mortgage rate by a comfortable margin, and on actually investing the difference every month.

Try these tools

See also

  • Guide How Loan Amortization Works
    The loan payment formula, why early payments are mostly interest, a worked $200,000 example month by month.
  • Guide How Different Loans Work
    Auto, personal, student, business, mortgage, HELOC, lease and reverse-mortgage loans compared, with Canadian compounding.
  • Glossary Amortization
    Amortization is paying off a debt through regular instalments that each cover interest plus part of the principal.
  • Glossary Principal
    The principal is the original amount of money borrowed or invested, before any interest is added.
  • Glossary Refinancing
    Refinancing is replacing an existing loan with a new one, usually to get a lower rate, a different term or to take out equity.
  • Glossary Mortgage points
    Mortgage points are fees paid upfront to lower a loan's interest rate; one point costs 1% of the loan amount.

Frequently Asked Questions

Partly. Paying extra principal on a 30-year loan shortens it and cuts interest, and you can stop if money gets tight. You still pay the 30-year rate, though, which is usually higher than the 15-year rate, so the same payment pays the loan off a little more slowly.

The lender gets its money back in half the time, so it carries less interest-rate and default risk. That is why 15-year rates are typically somewhat below 30-year rates on the same day.

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